Evaluation | Unit X

Throughout this unit I have created inspiring and artistic designs that add to my portfolio. Branching my ideas from the Practice Unit, I took the concept of ‘Encasement’ and developed a new method of research, thinking about trapped elements in a sense of preservation and contamination.

Magical Contamination

I particularly focussed on structure, exterior and shape, looking at living cells from ‘Magical Contamination’ by Antoine Bridier-Nahmias. The key focus of my work was combining different textures and blurring colours through the use of mohair yarns. Furthermore, I made a new discovery this unit and used the embellisher with knitted cashmere samples to give an alternate texture, and bamboo fibres which added a unique element to my collection. Contextually I have been looking at more exclusive designers to inspire my Autumn/Winter collection such as Rebecca Swann and Edun. These designers have a strong sense of combining multiple structures with heavy weight yarns and textures which inspired me to experiment with chunky machines and a wide variety of yarn types and weights. This experimentation led me to concentrate on open structured techniques such as Guilloche and drop stitch, combined with inlay to show tactile qualities.

Rebecca Swann

The ambition of my project was to create an Autumn/Winter collection for womenswear fashion. This was a personal goal of mine as I tend to continually use 12-gauge and 10-gauge machinery. Throughout unit X I have experimented on the 7, 6 and 4 gauge as well as fine gauge Dubied, which allowed me to explore alternate weights and outcomes. When it came to creating a final collection of samples, I made the decision to focus on finely knitted textiles, due to the silk yarns giving a higher quality finish which was what I desired. However, I continued to combine texture by using mohair, the embellisher and thicker silk yarns through inlay.

 My collection will appeal to high end fashion womenswear, I have used luxury yarns such as silk, mohair and cashmere which give a luxurious feel and are desirable for this market. The choice of technique and placement in my designs reflect sophistication, influenced by designers such as Christopher Kane and Helen Lawrence.

After being selected as one of the finalists for the Michael Kidner project, I have continued with this project in unit X, making my proposed outcomes of knitted shift dresses in boxy silhouettes with referencing to 60’s style. Designers such as Missoni and Miu Miu have inspired by designs, especially Missoni 2016 collection due to colour proportions and placement.

 

I have produced three dresses in total, which have different colour variations. In order to present these dresses professionally, I organised for a qualified photographer to photograph models in these dresses. My aim was for the shoot to communicate a sense of simplicity, therefore I didn’t feel the need for any styling and let the 60’s style dresses speak for themselves. After the unit X hand in I will continue to tweak and alter the dresses to get them finished to a high standard for the Flowers Gallery.

Balancing two projects throughout this unit has resulted me into becoming more confident when managing my time and also in making garments. I have found it challenging at times as I didn’t want my main project to suffer due to making garments for the Kidner project. One of my key improvements throughout unit X has been fashion illustrations, I have finally found my own style when illustrating. I have developed skills which communicate high quality designs which I feel could lead to me achieving a masters in knitted textiles in the future.

Unit X illustrations - Encasement Project

Michael Kidner | Garment Developement

I have overcome a lot of difficulties whilst knitting dresses for the Michael Kidner project. One of the major problems has been measurements, as the dresses are not the exact silhouettes I anticipated.

This has resulted in me having to tweak the dresses slightly in order to be wearable, the first dress I knitted was the most problematic.

Left: Original Design | Right: Final Outcome

Although knitting the dresses has been challenging, I have really enjoyed making garments throughout unit X, it has resulted in me gaining confidence in this area of knitted textiles, and has also led to me improving my skills on Design a Knit software. 

To show my dresses to an audience, I organised for professional photographs to be taken of the garments being modelled. As the dresses are bold and colourful, I felt the shoot didn't need any styling, I wanted to keep it simple at let the 60's style dresses be the focus. 

Photoshoot Research

Overall I am really pleased with the professional images. Organising for a professional photographer to take the images allowed me to see the shoot from different angles, adjust the garments and give direction to the models. I got these photographs professionally printed in order to give a high quality finish. 

Final Photographs from shoot

Evaluation | Practice Unit

In this Unit I found I have developed significant learning by experimenting and sourcing new materials. My visual research throughout Encasement and the concept of trapping elements pushed me to investigate innovative ways to communicate my ideas. I have pushed my concept and combined fine delicacy with heavy texture, communicating two different states and merging elements. I have added a tantalising quality to my collection by looping materials through open structure and heavy areas of detail adding feathers and gold foil. Within this concept I looked at cocoons, nests and animal bone structures which communicate the idea of components inside the exterior.

I have demonstrated the ability to express my initial ideas through drawing simple shapes, particularly looking at line quality and the movement, combined with circular shapes and layers. Furthermore, I feel I have explored these ideas while sampling, experimenting with inlay and drop stitch in a less structured manner. I feel in this unit I have achieved a more experimental approach as I used to plan ahead when sampling, yet throughout practice I have been open to trying new ideas and learning what works spontaneously. Furthermore, yarn choice has been key in order to communicate my concept. My collection consists of varied textures, base yarns being fine silks which are then combined with wool tops, heavy textured yarn and alternative materials such as feathers and tape yarn. This also allows my collection of samples to be suitable for luxury high end fashion.

My choice of technique was very important throughout this unit, although I do not have a varied range of technique within my collection, I approached techniques in original ways and pushed the boundaries. I feel inlay was the most successful in communicating the trapped elements, yet with moving the structure I effectively moved away from the linear look inlay can create, resulting in unique patterns and ideas. I found inlay most inspiring in my fabrics therefore I aim to push this forward in Unit X and experiment with more heavy weight fabrics and chunky machines.

The focus throughout my contextual research in this unit has been detailing and texture. I have noticed that I have not researched as much knitwear context as usual, alternatively I have been looking at heavy detailed garments to help develop my ideas. I have looked at designers such as Zuhair Murad SS13, Celine SS15 and Erdem SS14. I was particularly inspired by the Celine SS15 knitted dress, it pushed me to have simple knitted fabrics with heavy detail at the bottom creating a simple yet textured chaos. Zuhair Murad inspired me to push the boundaries and think of techniques I could use that would allow me to weave feathers into a knitted structure.

Celine RTW SS15

My first silhouette plays with the idea of open structure through lace holes over the chest area combined with a heavier detail with the added feathers, however this is very subtle and delicate. During Unit X I would like to develop garment ideas with heavier qualities and more texture.

I enjoyed engaging in live briefs within this unit as it has pushed me to expand the way I use techniques and conducting alternate research. I particularly liked the Michael Kidner Brief which surprised me as I feel I can struggle with a bright colour palette, however I made new discoveries when focusing on pattern and shape, and improved the understanding of balancing colour.