Sunday, 23 November 2014

Extracting Shape & Pattern

Unit Evaluation

My main concept and theme of this project has been extracting shape and pattern from the unit brief of “Urban Influences”. Within this brief I started looking at building structure and movement within city life, which I then refined to specific elements such as blocks of shape, linear qualities and negative space. I began to work from this approach in my sketchbook, focussing on smudged lines, blocks of colour and minimal patterns. This approach of drawing relates to an artist that has always inspired me: Trisha Brown, who has created a collection of spacial linear drawings. My sketchbook communicates a journey of how I have explored this topic and gathered inspiration from artists and designers throughout the project.

I started to develop this concept of shape and pattern into my knits. At first I found it really difficult to find not only the right technique that worked for me, but also the most suitable types of yarn, therefore I started to experiment. In order to reflect my drawings I used a lot of mohair as the texture creates a very smudged and delicate look, however to play with this idea I brushed the mohair which made my samples look more exciting and original. Secondly, I explored combining different yarns. By knitting different types together, such as 2/16 mercerised cotton and strips of monofilament, it worked successfully as the yarn created unique shapes within the knit. Although this approach gave a successful effect, it was very temperamental as the yarn would snap in the domestic machine at times. Similarly, knitting with cotton Lycra also added shape to my knits by pulling contrasting knits in horizontally, however a mistake I learnt from is that when Lycra is steamed, you lose about 1/3rd of the wideness, therefore when sampling with this yarn again I cast on a lot wider. One element I found hard to overcome in this project was communicating the blocky style I had collated in my sketchbook, as few techniques were working successfully when I was knitting. I then decided to try a completely different approach and paint onto my knits: I loved the combination of texture and colour this created in some samples. However considering my collection for fashion, this would be unsuitable for industry as the paint will soon wash out/fade in time.


I articulated my primary images, drawing and research by combining elements from each section in order to create a successful collection. My primary images looked at a range of shapes, shades, and combinations, which I then carefully selected and refined in my sketchbook. I did this by taking small sections of photographs and repeating them to create patterns. During this process I found it very important to pay attention to negative space in order to communicate the idea of “extracting” within my project. Research I conducted was extremely influential of my colour scheme and yarn choices. Suzanne Antonelli & Alexander Wang were extremely inspirational and impacted me to use yarns such as mohair & wool and colour wise, the tones of lime green, greys and whites. I selectively used colour within my samples to communicate extraction. Within my collection I have kept the background tones quite muted using greys and whites, then used colourful yarns to draw attention to shape and pattern.   

Within this project I have creatively used processes in order to make my collection more original. Hand painting onto my samples reflected the delicacy of drawings in my sketchbook as I was able to paint in a similar manner, however I could improve and develop this idea further. If I was to print onto the knit this would make my work more suitable for fashion and would look more professional. Techniques I have used within the knit specialism such as ladders, hooking up and elongated stitch consider my approach to the brief. These techniques draw attention to line quality and can create shape within a fabric.

Contextually, throughout my project I have constructed my collection to be suited for fashion. My yarn choices such as cotton, wool and make the samples suitable for wear. Researching fashion designers such as Alexander Wang & Serena Gili really inspired me and gave me confidence to work in a grid style while knitting. Although I have used a range of yarn throughout my samples, certain pieces that contain mohair & monofilament may push the collection to be better suited for high end fashion, as these yarns are more expensive to source and harder to wear. Furthermore techniques such as hooking up would be time consuming in the process of being made. I feel my collection would be likely to have an audience, the subject of my knits focus on shape & pattern; 
this is quite common within knitwear and also follows yearly trends.

My final collection is strong & works together to communicate extracting shapes. Throughout each sample I have combined similar elements whether its yarn choice, colour or technique so each sample compliments one another. Moving forward with this project, I have always been interested in texture therefore in the future I plan to play around more with mohair and perhaps introduce more texture and fluffy elements into my sampling. Additionally I would like to explore the monofilament side and play around with more stiff and structural yarns, 
I will begin to conduct research on 3D textiles and high fashion knitwear to support this idea.